Tuesday, July 19, 2016

Products and Material Links

Product and Material Links

Given the house is just about finished I thought it would be helpful for everyone if I gave out the links to all of the "special" materials we used in our house along with links to where they came from for more information. Hope this will help!

Sub Slab Radon Barrier: 
Reef Industries T90 Griffolyn - roughly $0.40 per sqft - shipping included
This product was used instead of 6 mil poly due to the high radon in our area and came in 1 sheet sized for our slab. Very happy with this product!

Capillary Break:
MasterSeal HLM 5000
This product was used off label as a capillary break. We ran into some questions of EPS foam melting with a liquid applied capillary break. We called technical assistance and they assured us it would work for our application. No complaints here

ICF Blocks:
AMVIC - 13" Blocks - 2.5" EPS / 8" Concrete / 2.5" EPS
We chose this over Logix due to minimal waste. When we purchased them the Plumwall bracing was a "free rental". Check out this system: http://www.plumwall.com/

Basement Waterproofing:
We used a double below grade system:


Acoustical Sealant:
Adco BP-300
We found this at our local Habitat for Humanity restore for $2 per 10 oz Tube. We went though multiple cases! I love this product and I hate it! It sticks to EVERYTHING and doesn't come off. We had a slogan - "If it is Grey DON'T TOUCH IT" Even when installing it when it was 20 degrees outside it was flexible, and sticky.

High Performance Fabrics and Tapes:
Weather Resistant Barrier: Solitex Mento Plus with Vana Tape - 475 Building Supply
Floppy Bit / Rim Joist:  Solitex Mento Plus with Vana Tape - 475 Building Supply
Basement Air barrier and Moisture control: Intello Plus with Vana Tape- 475 Building Supply
Window Tape Sealant: Tescon Profil Tape - 475 Building Supply

Primary Air Barrier:
Huber Zip System (7/16" Green) with Zip Tape

Primary Insulation:
Cellulose - Open Blown in the Attic, Dry dense packed in the thicker wall cavity and damp sprayed in the service cavity (all the same product - just a different installation technique)

Other Insulation Materials:
Thermal Foams EPS Foam Control (Sub Slab)
XPS Insulation (Window Buck Insulation)
PolyIso Rigid Insulation (Small Basement Wall Section and Window Bucks)
Touch-n-Seal One Part foam (for window installation)

Windows:
Zola uPVC Passive House Windows - our front door is Thermo-wood line
Our Windows are AWESOME!

Ventilation System:
Zehnder Comfo 350 HRV with Comfofond Ground look

Heating and Cooling:
Mitsubishi Air Source Heat Pump - MSZ-FH09NA

Water Heater:
Sanden CO2 Heat Pump Water Heater

Hot Water Circulating Pump:
Enovative AutoHot Recic Pump - OnDemand

Drain Water Heat Recovery Pipe:
Power Pipe 48"

Appliances:
Refrigerator - Kenmore 70343 
Range - Kenmore Elite 95073 (Induction Range)
Dishwasher - Kenmore Elite 14749
Clothes Washer - Whirlpool WFW92HEFBDJ
Clothes Dryer - Whirlpool WED99HEDC

Siding:
LP Smart Side Lap Siding
http://www.lpsmartside.com/products/lap/




6 comments:

  1. Do you remember the Sub Slab EPS density used?

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  2. WONDERFUL site you have here! I'm loving all the information and the simple efficient layout! Thank you for sharing :)
    I found your page while "researching" (ok Goggling) "Passive House sewer vent insulation" . I am brand new to Passive House design and have been given the job of "plumbing and HVAC" for a three building townhouse project :) The PPHP architect we are working with has suggested insulating all of the sanitary vents, but the general contractor is resisting that ($$$) Using AAV's has been suggested as an alternative but the local authority isn't likely to approve them. Where any of these things considerations you had to address? (PS question #2, how do you like the Sanden DHW? We have called up 24 of them!!!!) Thanks

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    1. Heather, Thanks for the comments! It is great to hear you find the information informative. Building this "To Be" certified Passive House was certainly a learning experience. To answer your questions - We used all AAV's except for 1 as per NYS building code. The one we do have vents though the roof. I did insulate all of the pipes connected to the exterior soil pipe with damp spray or dense packed cellulose. I also did insulate all of the drain pipes for sound control measures and for potential condensation points. I found dense packed cellulose to be the most effective and least costly insulation for those pipes. I was concerned the AAV's would open during our pressurization blower door test, but we pressurized the house to like 90Pa and they didn't show a measurable difference. So far we love the Sanden. We had to modify the "typical" installation to allow for a drain and an expansion tank. We also did have to heat tape the recirc lines to and from the outdoor unit, so make precautions for exterior outlets for the heat tape. Where are you building?

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  3. I typed a reply and it vanished... so I'm trying again.. sorry it this ends up being a duplicate ;)
    We are located on the west coast of Canada so, different plumbing code. Here AAV's are really only allowed for island sinks so we are going to have to talk the plumbing inspector into letting us use them. We are contemplating using Max-vents on the top of traditional venting system.. so the vents will still go through the roof (unfortunately) but the AAV's will stop stack-effect heat loss. Just to confirm... you insulated all of the sanitary drain pipework? even under the slab? I'll look into dense packed cellulose ... so far the only suggestion has been 1"-2" fibreglass... Glad to hear you like the Sanden hot water (phew - much relieved actually) I have them spec'd with expansion tanks, drains to a floor drain beside and heat trace on the exterior pipes. Where we live the temperature rarely goes below freezing for more than a day (if that) but better safe than sorry, especially 24 x over! Thank you replying so quick :)

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    1. We have a full basement with a raised fill septic system. the drains leave the house about 6 feet up the foundation wall. We have no plumbing in our slab. We did (or will) insulate all of the drain pipes in the house with cellulose. The selling point to this is the sound deading more so than thermal performance. With such a super sound deadened house, you notice the "normal" sounds much more than you would otherwise. You don't want to hear the flow of water when someone is showering, flushing to toilet or washing dishes. Hope that helps!

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